- 1 Boating Safety Course
- 2 General Info
- 3 Surveyors
- 4 Travel, trips and destinations
- 5 Maintenance Info
- 6 Winterizing
- 7 Fiberglass Repair and Epoxy
- 8 Making a boat cover
- 9 Tach
- 10 Boat Launches
- 11 Harbors and Slipping a boat
- 12 Stuff
- 13 Limber holes
- 14 Marine Electronics
- 15 Safety and classes
- 16 Repair and Parts info
- 17 Floatation
- 18 Misc
- 19 Painting
- 20 Renaming a boat
- 21 Retired and/or Decommissioned boats
Boating Safety Course
Travel, trips and destinations
Fiberglass Repair and Epoxy
Making a boat cover
I won't rule out the rectifier but I wouldn't replace it because of a Tach problem. The Tach is on the simplest side of the rectifier circuit and there's little that can go wrong. However, they do fail so it can't be completely eliminated.
The voltage readings are correct but you're looking at DC voltage and you want to see pulsed DC. In order to see that you should use the A/C scale and be reading 5-6 volts A/C on idle from the S (signal or send) post of the tach. If you are, then the rectifier is probably O.K. and the tach would be suspect.
Check your multi-meter, it may have a tach mode built in. I have a high end Fluke and a cheapo Radio Shack and they can both be setup to act as a tach. Both of them setup differently so consult your manual.
It's important to remember that a Tach doesn't care about voltage levels as long as they are within and acceptable range (9-15volts). What a tach interprets for you is the number of voltage pulses it gets.
I could keep this going, one check at a time, But I think that you should carefully read this text from Joe Reeves and do the elimination test that he suggests:
"(Testing Tachometer With Water Cooled Regulator/Rectifier) (J. Reeves)
A quick check is to simply plug in a another new tachometer as a piece of test equipment. If the new tach works properly and the old tach didn't, obviously the old tach is faulty.... but usually boaters don't carry around a spare tach (see below).
A faulty rectifier wouldn't damage the tachometer, the tachometer simply wouldn't work. This is due to the fact that the tachometer operates off of the charging system and the rectifier converts AC voltage to DC voltage, enabling the charging system. A faulty rectifier disables the charging system, and the tachometer simply doesn't register.
However.... those water-cooled regulator/rectifiers that are used on the 35amp charging systems (and some others) bring into play a different type problem, and as you've probably found out, they are really a pain to troubleshoot via the proper procedure. There's an easier way.
The tachometer sending/receiving setup operates off of the gray wire at the tachometer. That same gray wire exists at the engine wiring harness which is connected to the engine electrical terminal strip. You'll see that there is a gray wire leading from the regulator/rectifier to that terminal strip, and that there is another gray wire attached to it. That other gray wire is the wire leading to the tachometer which is the one you're looking for.
Remove that gray wire that leads to the tachometer. Now, find the two (2) yellow wires leading from the stator to that terminal strip. Hopefully one of them is either yellow/gray or is connected to a yellow/gray wire at the terminal strip. If so, connect the gray wire you removed previously to that yellow/gray terminal. Start the engine and check the tachometers operation, and if the tachometer operates as it should, then the regulator/rectifier is faulty and will require replacing. If the tachometer is still faulty, replace the tachometer.
If neither of the yellow wires from the stator is yellow/gray, and neither is attached to a yellow/gray wire, then attach that gray tachometer wire to either yellow stator wire, then the other yellow wire, checking the tachometer operation on both connections.
I've found this method to be a quick and efficient way of finding out which component is faulty.... the tachometer or the regulator/rectifier. It sounds drawn out but really only takes a very short time to run through. If the water cooled regulator/rectifier proves to be faulty, don't put off replacing it as they have been known to catch on fire with disastrous consequences."
Lake Geneva (262) 248-3673 Wrigley Drive
Fontana (262) 275-6136 Lake Street
Williams Bay (262) 245-2700 Geneva Street
Harbors and Slipping a boat
A drain hole through a stringer. Here's how to professionally install:
If you want to put limber holes in aft, this is how I would proceed. Drill a hole large enough to slip a 1" section of PVC pipe into. This hole should be as close to the bottom of the boat as possible. Drill PARALLEL to the bottom of the boat, not perpendicular to the stringer (I've had more than one employee square up to the stringer and go through bottom of the boat). Grind 3-4" around the hole to remove gel coat/contaminates and smooth the surface. Bed the PVC pipe in thickened epoxy, making sure to force the filler under and around the pipe. The pipe should protrude about 2" from the stringer on both sides. Build a 1/2" fillet around the pipe where it meets the stringer. Let this cure. Wash the amine blush from the epoxy, dry and sand smooth with 80 grit.
Using epoxy laminating resin and epoxy compatible 1708 biax, glass over the pipe and onto the stringer, mostly on the stringer. You can cut 3-4" squares of biax to make the job easier. Put 2 layers down and let it cure. Now you can cut back the pipe by grinding it to about 1/2" proud of the stringer. Sand the area and gel coat or paint.
If you do this correctly, you will have a solid penetration through the stringer that you wont have to worry about and you won't have more than a couple of ounces of standing water at the after end of the compartment.
Safety and classes
Repair and Parts info
Loctite 609 Green for push-in seals.
Pats Small Engine Plus - OEM and aftermarket Merc parts -- Order as a last resort Crowley Marine Genuine Mercruiser parts and lookup service Boats.net Has Mercury OEM and great prices
Repairing gunwale holes:
If you can get to the backside, tape over the front and marine tex the back. Then, remove the tape and use marine bondo on the front to get a nice smooth finish.
3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover
Removing Sikaflex 291 - using a gum remover or mechanical means
West Marine sells a 1/8" nap foam phenolic core roller. It can be cut to 7" if necessary.
Interlux 333 Brushing Liquid is the same as Mineral Spirits.
TSP (Tri-sodium-phosphate) is a cleaner to prepare the surface prior to painting.
Leave on for a few hours, watch for bubbling, then leave another hour or two.
Then scrape off with a squeegee like you use on a windshield at a gas station.
Look for the aviation instructions on the website, NOT the marine instructions as those
are for anti-fouling paint but the aviation instructions are for regular paint on aluminum.
Website with Tech Sheets
Call for location of instructions:
800-663-9274 X 2472 Michelle can direct me
Beaver Brooks, Sales